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[Edited with new setup on 11-23-2008]

I bought some of JB's '92-'95 brake ducts and installed them this weekend. I'm very happy with them.

The ducts were made by JB. You can contact him about buying some from the Honda-Tech thread here.

They fit really nicely into your factory fog light locations and have a 2.5" outlet. I ordered 12' of 2.5" neoprene hose from PegasusAutoRacing.com for about $65 shipped to Texas. It's supposed to be good for up to 300 degrees. Silicone hose, which is good for 500+ degrees, in the same length costs almost $100. The hose is pretty cool. The steel wire is strong enough to keep the hose straight for a foot or two under its own weight, but it can also tightly bend. It's good stuff.

Here's the passenger side of the bumper after being Dremeled out. Pretty much everything has to come out that's behind the little lip seen from the front of the bumper. I kept some of the fog light screw locations because I ended up using one of them...

JB gave me the ducts with threads molded into them and little bracket for support. I twisted the bracket a little and put a screw in one of the fog light holes. Here's the driver side with a close up of the bracket...

The inner diameter of the duct is 2.5" and the hose is also 2.5", which makes it impossible to get the hose in, or around, the ducting. I didn't even try pushing it because I was afraid of cracking the fiberglass. I found these "no hub couplings" at Home Depot. Theses worked great and are only a few bucks each...

They're labeled as 2", but the outer diameter of the rubber part is about 2 3/8".

The rubber snugly fits inside the duct and the hose will snugly go around the rubber...

Here's the passenger side with the bumper on, showing the ducts clearing the chassis and the clamp holding the hose and duct together...

Below is how I originally routed the ducts to some shop vac nozzles...

I never really liked that design and have since changed it. The ducting was long, traveled with the suspension and, while it wasn't that low, was low enough to where I could have possibly ended up dragging one to the pits. I had them like that for about about a year and they never came loose, though.

Here's how I've since rerouted the ducts...

Simple. That's aluminum flat bar that can be found at Home Depot. I bent the aluminum over the round bar that's on the front of my trailer, which was the perfect size for the 2.5" hose. Some self tapping screws hold it to the chassis and there's a zip tie around the hose, making sure it won't slide out of the bracket.

Here's the passenger side...

With a cold air intake, the ducting is right up against the filter. I wrapped some duct tape around the hose to keep them from wearing into each other.

I think routing it like this is a lot better for a few reasons:
- Less complicated, doesn't travel with suspension
- Higher off the ground
- Easier to quickly remove the bumper

Rather than trying to put air directly on the rotor, like I had it, which was probably less effective, this way should allow more air into the area and keep the caliper cooler.

It's hard to tell if they're really beneficial. 11" brakes don't need these ducts, even with R-comps, but they're there. I have yet to do a proper test, which would involve taking temps with one duct taped off, etc.

I like 'em, though.

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BobbyKetchum.com da blog

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Bone, this is what you really need. If I had a civic or a old set of hub assemblies I would build you something. Just do a google for SPINDLE DUCTS and you will find plenty of stuff.

Let me know what you think about these to give you something to start with.

I just got my new wheels a few days ago...they have now been painted flat black with a polished lip and they look sick.

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Measure once buy twice...I'm full of FAIL

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Looks nice.

BTW, I see we got Bone hooked on track events now. Very Happy

I won't be able to make the February MSR-H event. I'll be at a wedding in Mexico. Sad

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My car is not slow...It's just SPECIAL!!!

GRIP > DRIFT

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Do they makes these for Ford Explorers? Will I have to remove my fog lights? Smile

Looks pimp Bone. If you ever sell that car - I have dibs on it.
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2006 A-Spec Acura TL Navi 6MT (It's that woo woo)

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Site Admin

Since I just put a bunch of cash into it and have no intentions of selling it, the price would have to be a little more than right. How much you wanna pay?
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BobbyKetchum.com da blog

Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:29 pm Post subject:

couldn't see the pics phillip posted but I imagine they are what I was going to tell you would be better

you need to get solid ducts that mount on the knuckle and direct air towards the center of the rotor, I have a set that stay on the car 24/7 and the hose that connects to them and runs to the front only goes on for events
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Faster and faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death

I claim no responsibility for unintentional offense.

Greg is the *edit* Steve of domestics - Blinky

AWD + Boost = Fun

Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:37 pm Post subject:

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Faster and faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death

I claim no responsibility for unintentional offense.

Greg is the *edit* Steve of domestics - Blinky

AWD + Boost = Fun

Site Admin

The problem is that the Civic hub and 15" wheels leave you hardly any room to work with. This is why few Civics have them.
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BobbyKetchum.com da blog

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 12:10 am Post subject:

When I get time, I'll do this to the red car..
http://www.sandmracing.com/m_b05_ducts.html

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http://www.projectzum.com - Function7

243whp / 169wtq Endyn Built B20/VTEC Civic

2007 S2000 - Minor updates.

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I messed with my ducts tonight and I had the hose following the same path, but extending about 1.5" into the rim. It looked like it was going to work, but once the car was on the ground, the rim would rub with the steering wheel at more than 1.5 turns. This was the most open pathway to the rotor, and it was right on the back of the caliper and lower center of the rotor, but the hose is too big and the wheels are too small.

I wish there were pics with the Integra's wheels bolted up and on the ground with the steering at full lock. Those MUST have been rubbing a lot because when you get down there and turn the wheel both ways, there's really no room. I have a feeling those spindle ducts didn't end up working out that well, but I want to see them.

I'm going to mock up some smaller diameter hose and try the same technique that I tried tonight. This 2.5" is never going to get into the wheel. 2" might.
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BobbyKetchum.com da blog

Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:27 pm Post subject:

Keep in mind, while on track, you very seldom need to go full lock, and while auto-xing, brake ducts are not required.
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http://www.projectzum.com - Function7

243whp / 169wtq Endyn Built B20/VTEC Civic

2007 S2000 - Minor updates.

Site Admin

Yeah. I still don't want to have to worry about anything because the ducts are going to stay on the car all the time. Even at the track, I wouldn't want to be in the pits and turn the car full lock and squeeze the hose so it comes loose. And when going around a turn, the gap between the lower arm and the rim is even less with the suspension compressed.

I have those shop vac nozzles that I'm going to cut up and try.
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BobbyKetchum.com da blog

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Here you go Boner...http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1808779 if that doesn't work try looking for user name redline57
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Measure once buy twice...I'm full of FAIL

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The problem is still with smaller wheels on the Civic hub. There's simply no room if you want the thing to clear without rubbing. If only there wasn't that damn axle in the way.
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BobbyKetchum.com da blog